Ilheus / Brazil

On the eastern coast of Brazil, in the state of Bahia, lies Ilhéus on the coast of the southern Atlantic Ocean. The city is located about 200 kilometers south of the state capital, Salvador, and has approximately 130,000 inhabitants.

The city was founded in 1534 as a Portuguese colonial settlement under the name Sao Jorge dos Ilhéos. Already in the 19th century, it played an important role in the export of cocoa beans from the area to the whole world, earning it the nickname Cocoa Capital. Today, Ilhéus is one of the most important tourist centers in central eastern Brazil, popular mainly for its beautiful beaches and cultural heritage, but also for its exceptional gastronomy.

The Sao Jorge Church was built as early as 1556, making it one of the oldest in all of Brazil, but most of the buildings in the city date from the early 20th century. Its symbol is the Cathedral of Saint Sebastian, a unique mix of architectural styles, whose construction began in 1931. In the 1920s, the Vesúvio bar was opened, already visited by cocoa farmers and made famous by the works of Jorge Amado, the most famous and popular writer in all of Brazil. A fascinating museum dedicated to the author of more than 25 novels, translated into nearly 50 languages, is located in a luxurious house built by his father in 1929, where Amado spent part of his life. 

Anyone wanting to delve into the history of the area should not miss a visit to the Museum of Sacred Art with a wide collection of valuable artifacts from the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. To the west of the city lie the Yrere and Primavera cocoa farms, where it is possible to learn about the entire process of growing and processing the beans, which are the basis of chocolate.

Conversely, to the south lies the Una Ecopark, where visitors can try their hand at extracting sap from rubber trees or swim in the waters of the Maruim River. The biggest attraction, however, is the 100-meter-long treetop walkway, offering stunning views of the Atlantic Forest and its unique inhabitants - golden tamarins, golden-bellied capuchins, or sloths, whose rescue is cared for by one of the most important rehabilitation centers in Brazil. On the site of the Mata da Esperanca Botanical Garden, in close proximity to the center, stood a sugar cane mill in the 16th century, the ruins of which can be viewed with a guided tour.

Ilhéus is also about beautiful sandy beaches: among the most popular and closest to the city are Sul and Milionários, while bathing and water sports enthusiasts will feel like they are in paradise 60 kilometers north on the beautiful Itacarezinho beach.

The ideal place to buy authentic souvenirs is the Mercado de Artesanato, offering various handicrafts and excellent restaurants, which are not lacking in Bahia, the Mecca of gourmets. Worth trying are acarajé, fried dough made from brown beans filled with shrimp and topped with spicy sauce and tomato juice, moqueca, a stewed mix of seafood, coconut milk, vegetables, and spices usually served with rice, or bolo de aipim, an excellent manioc cake.

Places worth seeing

Catedral de Sao Sebastiao – Admire the symbol of the city, a beautiful cathedral with an interesting mix of styles from the 1930s.

Casa de Cultura Jorge Amado – Take a look into the life and work of Brazil's most famous writer in his house from 1929.

Bar Vesúvio – Don't miss a well-chilled beer in the bar where cocoa planters used to gather and which was forever immortalized by Jorge Amado.

Fazenda Yrere – Learn about the processing of cocoa beans and chocolate production directly on a cocoa plantation.

Ecoparque de Una – Walk in the treetops of the Atlantic Forest, enjoy stunning views, and try to spot some of the many endemic species.

Praia dos Milionarios – Relax, swim, and sunbathe on the beautiful sandy beach not far from the city.

Centro de Recuperacao Bicho Preguica – See adorable sloths in one of the most important rehabilitation centers in Brazil.